FIRST FLIGHT - May 18, 2021

 

Taxi Testing and Compass Calibration

 I've had four or five taxi tests and could not get the audio in the videos to work.  This video shows how nicely the Bearhawk taxis and demonstrates the compass calibration for the Dynon Skyview HDX.

2nd Engine Run and Brake Seating

 After starting and running the engine for the 2nd time, I was able to taxi and seat the brake pads to the rotors.  I am not able to cycle the prop.  Will need to pull the prop and check to see if I pulled the plug off the crank.  I'm pretty sure I did!

First Engine Start

 What a fun day!  Engine started on the 2nd attempt after the battery was jumped off.

Fuel Flow Test

 Very happy with the fuel flow test result.  I was able to achieve a gravity flow rate to the engine driven fuel pump of 32.8 GPH.  Boost pump to the servo was 56.2.  

Weight and Balance

 The results of the W&B are as follows.  Empty came in at 1,560 lbs and I was very happy with that!

Installing the Wings

 It took a team to install the wings!  

Wing Painting

 I really enjoyed painting the wings.  The Stewarts Paint System is fantastic!  You just have to remember to etch the aluminum before priming and painting.  I painted some smaller AL parts and forgot to etch.  The paint does not stick as well.

Installing the Hoerner Wing Tips

 These carbon fiber Hoerner style wing tips increase the total wing span to over 36 feet!  The tips are 18" each, so I decided to install a rib for rigidity to each.

Wing Assembly

 The Bearhawk (Model B Ribblet Airfoil) is pre-assemled at the factory.  My job is to install the fuel tanks, ailerons, flaps, rigging, wing tips...  Prime and Paint!  It took me almost 3 months to assemble and paint both wings.  

Moving Day

 The day has finally arrived!  We are moving the fuselage to the Statesville airport where it will stay until I have completed assembling and painting the wings.  

Tail Feathers and Preparing for Moving Day!

 

Airbox - Multiple Iterations

I originally wanted a conical airbox from James Aircraft to sit in front of the Fuel Servo.  I just could not get it to fit.  So after multiple attempts, I ended up casting a square fiberglass box for a rectangular K&N filter.  That also had some fitment issues, so I reluctantly modified the bottom of the cowling with a fiberglass blister to accommodate the final version.  With this increased filtered surface area should give better flow, and maybe a little more HP?

Gull Wing Doors with Carbon Fiber Frames

 I really wanted a light weight CF door covered in Lexan.  I got what I wanted, but I'm not sure I would do it again.  It was quite a job fabricating the CF door frames.  I lined them with Kevlar to prevent galvanic corrosion and aluminum backers where there will be rivets.  The handle came from Hendrick Manufacturing and are typically used on RV's.  

Painted Engine Cowling Fitted and Installed

 Painted Engine Cowling Fitted and Installed

Installing the Windscreen / Windscreen Fairing (Challenges)

Whoops!  I trimmed the windscreen too short!

The Bearhawk 4 Place uses the Cessna 170 windscreen.  Only slight trimming is need to fit the windscreen to the boot cowl.  My trimming was not slight.  The fix is to enlarge the windscreen fairing and fabricate a piece coving piece for the inside of the windscreen. 

These pictures tell the story...

Fuel Lines ~ Firewall Forward

The firewall forward installation of the fuel lines was very straight forward.  No issues.  I optimized the routing by securing the lines to the engine case/sump with cushioned high temp adele clamps.  

Routing from the firewall goes like this:

1. Port side lower bulkhead fitting to mechanical (engine driven) fuel pump
2. Mechanical fuel pump to forward facing fuel controller
3. Fuel controller (metered fuel) to fuel flow transducer (top of the engine case)
4. Fuel flow transducer to fuel flow divider (spider)

The fuel lines I selected are not the typical fire sleeved lines from most aviation supply houses.  These lines are from TS Flightlines.  Tom Swearingen is the owner and takes great care in consulting with the home builder before assembling the lines.  Tom has purposely designed a better fuel line that is braided in stainless steel and covered (integrated) with teflon.  Just one example of why his lines are superior...  Standard lines are rated to 1,000psi.  TS FLightlines are rated to 3,000psi. 


SPECS....

TS Flightlines Integrated Teflon Firesleeve Fuel Lines

	NEW Integrated Teflon Firesleeve	Standard Teflon Firesleeve (Stratoflex 101)
Conductive Teflon Liner	.030 Wall	.020 Wall
304 Stainless Braid	.006 Wire	.002 Wire
Working Pressure	3000 PSI	1000 PSI
Temperature Rating	-76*/+500*	-65*/+450*
High Temp Silicone Outer Cover	*.060 - .090 Thick	AS1072 Firesleeve

SPECS:

·      Proprietary Design Based on MIL SPECS

·      -3 through -8

·      Made from 304 Stainless Bar Stock

·      Meets ASTM specifications with both MIL and Inspection Reports

·      CNC Machined

·      CNC Mandrel Bends

·      Increased ID past the normal ID average of Stratoflex, Aeroquip, Smiths Titeflex, Teleflex Aero for slightly increased flow.

·      Mandrel Bends maintain a consistent bend margin

·      OD of the body is not increased to achieve a consistent ID

·      Uses a certified nut (Preparing for FAA certification)

·      Proprietary stainless-steel crimp collars

·      Tested to 7500 PSI

(I am not getting paid, just impressed with the product...)

Installing the Hartzell Trailblazer 84" Propeller

I am using the Hartzell 83" Trailblazer composite propellor.  This was tested by Mark Goldberg of the Bearhawk factory (AviPro Aircraft).  Everyone I spoke that has flown behind this prop LOVES it!  Very lightweight and exceptional performance. 

Hanging the prop is fairly straight forward.  Hartzell technical service department was very helpful.  I confirmed a few things with them from the manual.  Prop governor installation and set up, prop hub orientation, safety wiring, etc.  The manual tightening the prop hub to 40 ft lbs each bolt.  There is a bolting sequence to be followed.  You can't do it without a propellor wrench.  Hartzell sells propellor wrenches, but the Ultimate Propellor Wrench works best!  https://antisplataero.com/products/ultimate-propeller-wrench

Detail Painting

 Paint Finishing & Details

New Fairlead for Rear Seat Bracket

 You can see in this picture after installing the rear seat, the left rudder cable rubs against the left rear seat bracket.  These pics demonstrate the fix.

Ignition System - The Magneto vs. Electronic Ignition Decision

If 100 aircraft owners read this blog, I’m certain there will be 100 different opinions on the following subject.  Based on my purpose, environment and mission, this is how I (eventually) came to the decision to use a traditional dual magneto ignition system for the Bearhawk 4 Place I am currently building. 

From the time I started considering the Bearhawk 4 Place quick build kit, I was determined to install a dual electronic ignition system on the IO-540.  I thought, why not?  All modern cars use electronic ignition systems.  Even the FAA has certified a few electronic ignition systems for certified built piston aircraft.  At least partially, with a mag on the other side.  So of course my engine should have EI.  Yes, I want better engine starts.  Yes, I want a smoother running (happier) engine.  Yes, I want the improved fuel burn.  After all, magnetos are ancient history!  Come on people, get with the times!

So I set out to learn more about the Light Speed Engineering solid state EI system (lightspeed-aero.com).  Klaus Savier, President, LSE, LLC, has done a phenomenal job designing and engineering his EI systems.  With 20+ years in service and a great track record, along with Lycoming’s tacit approval of the Light Speed EI on their Thunderbolt engine line (by factory pre-drilling the flywheel for the crank sensor) made for a convincing argument to use this EI system on my IO-540.  

Then, I took a harder look at both the P-Mag (Emagair.com) and SureFly (surefly.aero) magneto replacements.  P-Mag offers a full featured electronic ignition upgrade with a built in power back-up (alternator).  Simply swap out the existing traditional mag with the P-Mag. The SureFly magneto replacement is similar to the P-Mag, without back up power (uses ship power).  

With this information, I’m now leaning towards P-Mag or SureFly EI’s over the Light Speed, mostly because of the ease of installation and all in one units.  Unlike Light Speed that requires multiple satellite components; crank sensor, multiple coil packs, ignition modules with suggested mounting locations on the cabin side of the firewall and, recommended cooling fans.  Oh, and don’t forget the additional 12V back-up battery (another 10+ pounds).  P-Mag and SureFly require much less real estate, additional stuff and weigh less.  I liked that.

Drilling the Wings to the Fuselage

The following is my experience as I learned the process for attaching the wing (root) to the fuselage.  Both main and rear spars come predrilled with 3/16” holes at the root attach point.  The fuselage attachment fittings are predrilled with 1/4” holes.  The end result is to attach the wing root to the fuselage by match drilling the main spar to the front attachment fitting to 3/8” (AN-6), and the rear spar to the rear attachment fitting to 5/16” (AN-5), both left and right.  So we are enlarging existing smaller holes in both the spars and the fuselage to match the aforementioned sizes. 

But first, wings on all airplanes have a set Angle of Incidence.  And the Angle of Incidence for both wings must match each other when installed to the fuselage.  The Bearhawk factory does amazing work building their fuselages and wings.  Their pre-established attachment points are extremely accurate.  However, the wings Angle of Incidence is a fixed design feature that MUST be checked by the builder and can require some fine tuning. 

What is the Angle of Incidence?  On fixed-wing aircraft, the angle of incidence (sometimes referred to as the mounting angle) is the angle between the chord line of the wing where the wing is mounted to the fuselage, and a reference axis along the fuselage (often the direction of minimum drag, or where applicable, the longitudinal axis). The angle of incidence is fixed in the design of the aircraft, and with rare exceptions, cannot be varied in flight.

Wiring and Electrical System

Video from my YouTube Channel discussing the Wiring and Electrical System

I won't get into the specifics of the ignition system in this post, but I need to say what ignition system I am going with for the purpose of understanding what I am wiring.  Because, I previously stated that I would be using a Light Speed dual electronic ignition system.  But I changed my mind and decided I would go with a SureFly electronic ignition on the left side, with a Slick Magneto on the right side.  Then, I changed my mind again...  NOW, I am installing dual Slick Magnetos (6393 retard left, 6350 plain right).  Why?  Because Champion Aerospace offers the SureStart Ignition Booster for their dual Slick Magneto Systems.  They claim engine starts on the 2nd or 3rd blade every time, hot or cold.  I'll explain more when I post the Ignition System blog...

Ok, the Electrical and Wiring process went very well!  But I could not have done it without the help of Jason Smith at Aerotronics.  Aerotronics built my instrument panel and then shipped it to me.  After I mounted the panel and it was my job to bring all of the wires (fuel pump, lights, sensors, battery contactor, P-Leads, etc) through the firewall to panel.  This is accomplished with a 37 pin P1 Circular Connector Plug, a.k.a., the P1 Plug.  Aerotronics prewires the female end of the P1 Plug at the panel.   They map all of the pin locations and then send me the pin map for wiring the male end of the P1 Plug that I assemble.  In addition, based on my choice for a ignition system, Aerotronics also supplied me with a schematic for everything else to be brought through the firewall going to the circuit breaker panel.  It's a full diagram of the entire wiring system firewall forward.  I couldn't have done it without their help.  I read Bob Knuckles book, The Aeroelectric Connection as well as other related books and websites to help me understand the process, methods and technical aspects.

Some of the items that will be mounted to the firewall.

The Air Induction System

About a year ago Don Rivera, founder of Airflow Performance, hosted a Fuel Injection 101 course that I attended.  I am using their fuel injection system on my IO-540.  Don offered a perspective that stuck with me, "Engines are just air pumps".  Good airflow entering the engine is just as important as a good exhaust system that can carry spent air out of the engine.

Below is the standard "square" air box on most Bearhawk's.

I set out to streamline the air induction system for my Bearhawk and create a round ram type inlet, like this.

Engine Cowling

Time to install the engine cowling...  When building the Bearhawk, there are two sets of manuals.  The AviPro Aircraft "Builder's Assistance Manual" for the kit, and Eric Newton's "Bearhawk Builder's Manual" for scratch builders that was written in 2008.  Both manuals discuss the design and installation almost identically.  Eric Newton's scratch builders manual is a little more thorough on most everything, including the engine cowling.  But both are referenced for varying aspects.

Completed view of the engine cowling and nose bowl installation.

Engine Baffling and Plenum

After completing the baffling provided in the RV-10 Firewall Forward Kit, I installed the traditional Air Flow Fabric in order to seal the gap between engine cowling and the baffling.  Ultimately I was not happy with all the seams, gaps and crevices with the Air Flow Fabric.  Swiss cheese comes to mind.  Yes, 99% of piston GA engines use a flexible fabric to seal and cool the engine, but I was intrigued with a few carbon fiber plenums I encountered.  And considering IO-540's in tight Bearhawk engine cowlings are reported to run hot, I decided to take a stab at fabricating my own carbon fiber plenum.  

    The finished product...

Hanging the Engine

Previously I discussed some difficulty with the engine bracket and isolators.  Once resolved, the engine swung into place and was mounted in less than 20 minutes.  Whew!

Boot Cowl

I have two desired outcomes with the boot cowl.

1).  To have access to the back of the instrument panel from the inside top, after the windscreen is installed.  This will also allow the hinged panel to tilt rearward for greater access.

2).  To have access at the sides of the boot cowl for access to rudder pedals, fuel lines, brake lines, etc.

Engine Isolators - What a Debacle!

(UPDATE 8/30/19...  Several have asked and offered advise for installing the engine and isolators to the Type 2 bracket.  I successfully completed the engine installation after consulting several certified engine service manuals on the same engine and Lord J-9613-12 isolators.  All were consistent in detailing the sequence and that each AN-7 bolt should be fully torqued before moving to the next.  This proved very effective made the installation a non event.)


It WAS a debacle...  It's easy to describe the issue now after "going to school" on engine mounting brackets, engine case ears, isolators and isolator bolt lengths.  But this whole experience was a huge time suck and slowed my build progress down more than I would have expected.


The following video describes the entire engine mounting situation and explains why it took so long to hang it...  Get ready for an education on mounting an engine!

Gear Legs On ~ No More Rotisserie!

It's been a long summer and quite awhile since I updated my build blog...  I had a business trip in June, family vacation to California in early July, then a week in Oshkosh at the end of July.


Now that the fuselage has been painted, it's time to get some legs under her.  It is bitter sweet to remove the convenience of the rotisserie, but real progress to finally have the gear legs mounted.  Finally starting to look like an airplane!

Each of the main gear struts is comprised of a cylinder containing a high compression spring and a capped shaft.  The spring must be compressed into the cylinder, locked in place with a snap ring, then the cylinder is filled with ATV fluid.  This creates the hydraulic dampening system for the Bearhawk landing gear.

In my opinion, the most underrated component on the entire Bearhawk line is the ingenious landing gear system.  This gear is not "springy" and creates a sense of sticking to the runway on landings.

Following the Bearhawk Builder's Assistance Manual I installed the spring accordingly. 

Fuselage Fabric Covering, Fabric Filler, Prime & Paint

I used the Stewart Systems fabric covering and waterborne paint products.  And could not be happier!  It took me about six weeks to cover and fully paint the fuselage.  

I used the blanket method for covering the fuselage.  I began on the bottom, then the sides, the vertical stabilizer, and finally the top.  The transition from the leading edge of the V-Stab to the top was a little tricky, but again the Stewart Systems videos are exceptional for detailing the fabric covering and painting process.  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrlV5GMsw4S6zTn9bzjFwkA

I was prepared to accept a marginal paint job considering my experience and conditions.  So to say I am happy with the results would be an understatement.  The top coat came out PERFECT!  

I have to attribute much of the success of this paint job to the equipment I chose to use.  Stewart Systems say that 95% of bad paint jobs come from poor or inappropriate equipment.  So I selected everything they recommended including a high output air compressor that could keep up with long run times and maintain consistent pressure at the gun, high flow fittings and hoses, high performance air dryer, and a high performance HVLP paint gun with an inline pressure gauge.  

I cannot say enough about the Stewart Systems for fabric and paint!

9 Month Walk Around

March 2019 marks the 9th month of my Bearhawk build.  I am finally feeling like there is light at the end of the tunnel!  I know for certain that my next build will go much quicker having established tools and processes.  (I would like build a Bearhawk Patrol next). 

Here is a quick overview of my status as of March 10, 2019.  I thought this would be a good point to show the status of my build as I am almost ready to cover the fuselage with fabric. 

Eliminating the D Window...

This turned into a bigger job than I wanted.  I decided not to use the kit provided "D window" assembly and go for a more modern look.  (To me, the D window says Pacer or Super Cub). 

All of the fabrication took place on the port side of the fuselage.  Whatever I ended up with was copied and cut from the cargo door on the starboard side. 

The process I used involved a single piece of .05 aluminum as the frame.  I layered or laminated additional pieces of .032 aluminum for build up.  Finally I finished it off with aluminum angles attached to the inside for strength. 

Pitch and Roll Auto Pilot Servos

I elected to install a two axis Dynon auto pilot system, (pitch and roll).  Perfect for holding altitudes and headings.  Turns using the heading bug, or route changes while in AP mode, will be assisted with the pilot's foot on the rudder pedals in the appropriate direction to compensate for adverse yaw.

The roll servo is mounted under the pilots seat on a .050 aluminum plate.  The plate is secured using adel clamps.  Dynon provides brackets in their AP servo mounting kits.  The following pictures show the plate I fabricated and the Dynon provided bracket.

Static Ports and Lines

Most of the Bearhawk builders I've spoken to say that the static ports are most effective further down the fuselage.  I've heard of some installed on the boot cowl, but I would think that prop wash would interfere.  I made tabs from aluminum angles and attached the ports from the rear secured with flush rivets.

Antenna Mounting Locations

Antenna's mounted on this ship will include:

• 1 Comm (Avidyne IFD-540)
• 2 GPS (Dynon 10" Skyview HDX & Avidyne IFD-540 Navigator)
• 1 ADSB in/out
• 1 Transponder
• 1 ELT (ACK E-04 406)

I personally prefer no hair on the top of my airplane, consistent with my head. 😎The only comm antenna is mounted at the rear of the tunnel.  (Fuselage is rotated on the rotisserie)

The T3 Tailwheel Dual Coil Over Shock Suspension

It's been described, "like landing on a cloud!"  Maybe.  But I am pretty sure the T3 Tailwheel Suspension System will make for improved tailwheel dampening on landings for the Bearhawk 4 Place.  The B Model Bearhawk kit comes with a tapered round spring tailwheel suspension.  The large end of the round spring fits into a receiver built into the kit frame.  The kit does not include the tailwheel assembly itself and the builder will need to source their own.  I purchased my tailwheel for the round spring suspension from Eric Newton, owner and builder of Bearhawk Tailwheels, LLC.

Eric Newton's (Bearhawk Tailwheels, LLC) tailwheel assembly mounted to the kit included round spring suspension.  

Mid Build Interview

Bryan Walstrom from the Experimental Aircraft Channel stopped by not long ago for an interview of the Bearhawk build.  Be sure to subscribe to Bryan's channel and see his other great interviews related to amateur aircraft building.

Instrument Panel

I received the new instrument panel from Aerotronics last week.  Jason Smith was the lead technician and his team did a fantastic job building my panel.  I requested this panel IFR capable.  The AviDyne IFD-540 (WAAS GPS) makes that possible. 

The EFIS is the Dynon Skyview HDX with its own GPS, engine monitoring, ADSB in & out, ADAHRS and Magnatometer for complete attitude instrumentation. 

We also opted for the iPad mount with cooling fan. 

It's beautiful!

Tunnel "Fairing"

Some of the RV builders claim that airflow through the cowling can be improved with a curved piece at the tunnel.  I call it a Tunnel Fairing.  IDK...

.032 aluminum screwed to a 1 1/2" PVC pipe.

Completed

ELT

Mounting the ACK E-04 406 Mhz ELT is pretty straight forward.  I installed an aluminum tray on the existing frame tabs.  Then set the provided bracket and straps that comes with the ACK E-04.  So four holes through the bracket and the tray with four AN-3 bolts to secure it in place.

Sheet Metal Under the Doors

Because I raised the door thresholds for the gull wing doors, I needed to fabricate some additional aluminum panels.  The AviPro Bearhawk kit also comes with aluminum threshold caps that I modified to serve as wear plates.  Those are typically fabric covered.   This section will have three panels assembled with #6 button head screws and nut plates.  This will allow access for inspection and maintenance of the fuel lines.

Upholstered Seats!

Not exactly a build item, but I picked up the seats today from the upholsterer.  Bobby Carswell covered the seats in black leather and did a great job that included bolsters with front and rear seat pockets!  Can't have enough seat pockets!  Bobby does not have a website, but can be reached at ‭(704) 740-5178

Grove 66-152 Wheels and Brakes - Issues with the Torque Plates

This video explains the issues I encountered with the Grove 66-152 wheels and brakes.  The torque plate requires some bushings in the mounting holes, and the torque plate itself needs to be centered and aligned properly.  Here's what I did...

Brake Lines

Ok, Bearhawk builders.  There are a few discussions in the manuals about brakes lines, but there's little to be desired when it comes to specifics and details.  So after scouring the bearhawkforums.com site looking for contributions on the subject, I posted a request for a parts list.  

Jared Yates provided a link to his photo guide to brake line hardware from the Bearhawk.Tips site.  Thank you, Jared.

I also received the following "CAD drawing" from a fellow builder, which helped tremendously.  

Fuel Lines

Here's the path of the fuel system...

The fuel system begins with two 25 gallon aluminum tanks in each wing.  Four solid 3/8" aluminum fuel lines, two from each tank, make their way to the fuel selector that lives on the cockpit floor between the two front seats, just above the flaps handle.  Before reaching the fuel selector, the lines are reduced 2 to1 through a 3/8" Tee.  We now have one 3/8" line coming from each side, left and right.  

The Skylight

The skylight...  Most taildraggers I've flown have a skylight, or "green house".  The Bearhawk plans and manuals do not account for a skylight, so some modifications are necessary to install one. 

Installing the Firewall

If you are following along for your own Bearhawk build, here are a few items I learned while installing the firewall.

Raised Threshold, Gull Wing Doors & Piano Hinges

I've never been a fan of the Bearhawk's swing out door that conflicts with the wing strut.  When the lower portion of the door swings out, it hits the strut.  The workaround has always been what some call a "mouse door" at the bottom of the swing out to allow more door travel.  Personally, I think it just looks bad...  And functionally, it's just something you always have to be mindful of.  Passengers will always want to put their weight on the swing out when climbing in.  Who needs it?  I'm going to eliminate the swing out door completely.

Here's an example of a Bearhawk with a "mouse door" on the bottom of the swing out door:

Misc. Build Items

(Update 9-25-18 - Scroll down to the cable swaging section for a revision)

Ben and I returned from Oshkosh AirVenture 2018 last weekend.  It was a great trip and we came home with tons of ideas for the Bearhawk build.  Got to spend time with Mike Silvernagle, Canadian Bearhawk Distributor https://bearhawkcanada.ca  Always enjoy hanging out with Mike and talking Bearhawks!

Below are a few miscellaneous items I've worked on over the past month:

Unexpected Fix for Both Trim Tabs

Well, I didn't expect this one...  The trim tabs are both built into the elevators from the factory.  Before covering the elevators, the trim tabs need to be cut out.  Simple enough.  After covering the elevators, I also covered the trim tabs separately.  But, when reattaching the trim tabs to their respective positions on the elevators, I discovered a fitment conflict.

So, I it's time to remove the covering and perform some surgery

Transition from trim actuator tube to the trim tab push rod

This is pretty straight forward but I was not able to find any examples on the Bearhawk builders forum or in the plans.  At the bottom of both horizontal stabilizers the trim tab push rod connects to the actuator tube that runs through the ribs of the H Stab.  I wanted to make a hole big enough for access for maintenance/inspection.  I was hoping for a cover with a slit that the tab on the actuator tube could poke through.  But the nut and bolt sit right on the fabric line so the hole is larger than I intended.  I suppose I could have extended the tab to avoid the conflict with the nut and bolt, but I can do that after the bird is flying.  The last pictures show what I am talking about.

Where the push rod and actuator tube connect is where opening will be

Balancing the Elevator

The elevator and ailerons are generally required to be balanced to improve stick feel, longitudinal stability and reduce the potential for control surface flutter while in flight.  The Bearhawk is no different.  The method I chose to use to balance my elevator differs slightly from the Bearhawk plans.  The plans show clamping plywood to the leading edges of the elevator then pouring molten lead into a form, as shown here...

Learning Fabric Covering using Stewart Systems

Over the past week I installed the cabin floors, rudder pedals/brake master cylinders and the control stick assembly.  I had a slight problem with the control stick assembly binding after attaching it to the floor tabs.  After several on-off installations, I removed a slight amount of material around the torque tube, lubed it up real good, and now it moves free and correct without any binding.  Very smooth!

I could and will do more on the fuselage soon, but what really has my interest is the fabric covering process and I am challenged to learn as much as I can about how to do it and what is the best system to use.  This will be my first time covering an airplane so I have been excited to "figure it out"!

How I built the Rotisserie

Several have asked how I built the rotisserie.  Here's a video:

The Rotisserie WORKS!

The kit arrived today!  Mike Nellis was the delivery driver and did a great job unpacking and helping me unload the trailer.  It's amazing how well packaged the kit is.  Almost impossible to get damaged while being shipped.

We put the fuselage in the garage and the wings went down the street to a storage unit.  When Mike left, I went back to the garage and mounted the fuselage on the rotisserie and it worked great!  Watch the video. 

Preparing for the delivery of the Bearhawk kit

Friday June 1, 2018

Today is the big day!  Delivery of the Bearhawk 4 Place kit will happen this afternoon.  Last evening I finished setting up the long skinny two car garage for its new occupant.  I also completed the fabrication of the fuselage rotisserie and feel pretty good that I built it right.  It will need some fine tuning and I will get exact measurements when the frame arrives to mount the tail section and firewall, but that shouldn’t take very long.  So once the fuselage is mounted to the rotisserie, the building begins!